TETHERED TRAINER By Earl Cayton

YOU WOULDN’T LEARN TO FLY IN A THUNDERBOLT, SO WHY START CONTROL-LINING WITH A SPEED JOB? THIS MODEL IS DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY FOR THE BEGINNER. BUT BY USING A LARGER ENGINE SHE’LL HIT 70 M.P.H.

THERE has long been a definite need for a beginner's control-line model. Too often have enthusiastic beginners entered this new phase of model building with complicated 100-mile-per-hour-plus clipped-wing super jobs, only to be discouraged when models were reduced to scrap after the first few flights.

With this in mind, the Tethered Trainer was designed expressly to fit the needs of those builders who are just entering the "controlled" field. Not even the greenest beginner will find difficulty in handling this tethered trainer, as efficient proportions and size make stability inherent. A happy combination of good looks and simplicity enable any beginner to be considered on the same par as more advanced guideliners.

Powered by motors of .19-.23 cubic inch displacement, the Tethered Trainer zips around the course fast enough to perform any stunt but a snap roll. When the motor cuts, this model assumes a normal glide, thus saving on both props and nerves. This construction would be strong even with balsa, but with hardwood the trainer is practically crashproof!

Are you the type that wants to advance until you are capable of handling "hot" jobs for tethered speed meets, or do you just want to fly a highly maneuverable job that is stable enough to fly safely and yet which will perform at speeds that are "sporty"? We've anticipated either category. The mounts are flexible enough to fit most large-bore motors. (Mounts may be made to fit individual crankcases merely by widening the top view.) By Just substituting a Bunch Tiger or motor of similar displacement, speeds of from sixty to seventy miles per hour may be obtained with the other characteristics of the lower-powered version still retained. If you want "superspeed" for speed contests, you may graduate until you own one of the "hottest" little spin-dizzies that ever entered a contest merely by clipping half of the area off the wings, substituting a retractable landing gear and adding a Hornet or Super Cyclone to do the work up front. No matter what you expect in a U-control job, you will want to build the Tethered Trainer.

The construction is so simple that the photos and plans practically speak for themselves. However, you may want a few pointers in the use of hardwoods. Practically any hardwood will do, but for the sake of nicked and blistered fingers, to say nothing of sore tempers, we would suggest selecting a variety of wood that is easily carved. We have found that white pine, sugar pine, bass wood, cedar and spruce are excellent for this purpose. If you are one of these balsa hoarders, you may use balsa, but you should enlarge wood sizes proportionately.

For most cutting purposes razor blades are out of the question. A good sharp fish knife or pocket knife will do. A little coping saw will be handy for cutting out tail and tip outlines, et cetera, and a small plane will prove invaluable for cutting down leading and trailing edges, tip outlines, et cetera. Casco and other glues hold better on hardwoods, but take quite a while to dry. Regular model cement will do if a little fillet is made around the joint.

Now that we are through with the construction of the model, we are ready to take it out to the nearest lot to fly. But wait ! In just a shake we can attach a motor switch that will prove invaluable for cutting the motor at precise moments. Simply attach a third line to either your toggle switch or high-tension lead.

If this is the first time that you have flown a control job, it might be well to select a calm day. First of all, even before you get your motor running, look out for spectators. Long experience gained the hard way by not only myself but practically every guide-liner that I have ever met, teaches that this is the time to threaten every little squirt and empound every pooch that so much as looks as if he will get entangled in the lines.

Now you may start your motor and open it to about half throttle, assuming that you are using a .19-.23 cubic inch displacement motor. Now, have your partner let the model take off by setting it on the ground and pointing the model slightly to the outside of the circle. This will keep out any slack that might form on the take-off. The model should take off and climb slowly into the air. Increase power as your ability increases, until you can get the ship to do anything that a real one can do except a roll. Happy landings.

This model is stable yet maneuverable. If the motor cuts she glides slowly to earth in one piece, due to large wing area. Designer Cayton is on the lines.