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Building a Waco Cabin Model

by
PAUL W. LINDBERG
Model designer end model editor of POPULAR AVIATION


The completed model of the Waco cabin plane is true to life and, being a biplane, is an excellent flyer. It will be well worth your while to build this attractive model.


The uncovered framework of the Waco cabin plane, described to the accompanying article.

THE model builders consider this Waco model very popular. This model is of the latest design. It is equipped with shock absorbing landing gear, movable controls which carry aluminum hinges and other interesting features. Unusually stable and excellent flights are obtainable with this model.

COLOR SCHEME

Entire model; red
All details; black and white

CONSTRUCTION OF FUSELAGE

First, place waxed paper on top of plan to prevent parts from sticking to it. The fuselage sides are built from 1/16-inch square balsa. The longerons, verticals, diagonal braces, etc., are held in place until securely cemented by inserting straight pins on either side of strips wherever needed. When the two sides are completed, the crossmembers are cemented into their proper locations. Check carefully front to rear for alignment.

Cut the formers from 1/32-inch sheet balsa and cement in their respective positions as shown on the plan. Two

1/16 square stringers are run along either side of fuselage and two along top and bottom. Their positions are shown on plan.

Stiff paper is required between the 1/8-inch thick balsa nose plate and formers 1, 3 and 4. Note: curve of stiff paper on sides of fuselage. See plan.

The windshield framework is made of one piece of stiff paper. Stiff paper is also used on sides for window frames. See photo of framework.

CONSTRUCTION OF MOTOR

To form cylinders, wind heavy thread around balsa blocks which have been cut and sanded to shape. The crankcase is made from three separate pieces. Rocker-arm, housings and pushrods are also made of balsa. Details of these parts are clearly shown on plan.

CONSTRUCTION OF WINGS

Cut all ribs from 1/16-inch balsa. Pin the spar in position on the plan. Now, cement ribs in their proper location. The leading and trailing edges are cut and sanded to shape and cemented to the ribs. The panels carry movable ailerons which are a great help in controlling the flights. Make wing tips from 1/16-inch thick balsa. We highly approve of this type of wing tip, because it is much easier to construct and neater in appearance.

C0NSTRUCTION OF ELEVATOR AND RUDDER

These are built from 1/16-inch square and flat balsa, and are constructed on the plan. Their construction is very simple; therefore, no difficulty should be encountered here.

CONSTRUCTION OF LANDING GEAR

Landing-gear struts are made from solid balsa. Their construction is shown on plan. Reinforce all parts with piano wire, as shown. The landing gear can be built with or without the shock absorber. We recommend the shock absorber, because it helps prevent damage to undercarriage when landing.

COVERING THE MODEL

Apply tissue to the various framework members, using a light grade of model airplane dope to fasten it to the outer edges. Stretch tissue as tightly as possible to remove all wrinkles. When edges have dried, apply coat of water to tissue. When all water has dried completely, tissue will become taut. May we suggest that you pin wings, elevator and such to flat surface to keep from warping.

ASSEMBLY

After the various parts have been covered, the lower wing panels can be cemented into position. The lower wing panels carry pins at the roots, and these pins are inserted into balsa wing beam supports which pass through bottom of fuselage.

Now, cement top wings and outer struts into position. Elevator and rudder can be cemented to rear of fuselage.

The streamline fairings on cowl are formed from balsa. The carburetor air intake is made of stiff paper and cemented to cowl. See plan. All other details shown on plan can be applied. Use thread to brace elevator and rudder.

TESTING AND FLYING

Two types of propellers are used on this model. One is made of fiber which has a much wider blade. This type of blade causes the motor to turn at less r.p.m. and greater flights result. By twisting the blades, the pitch can easily be adjusted. The balsa scale propeller is used for exhibition purposes only. Six strands of 1/8" flat rubber are sufficient to fly the model.

With the rubber motor and flying propeller in place, gently launch your model over tall grass. By this method, you can see if your model is properly balanced. If model glides a short distance, and nose rises abruptly, it will be necessary to add weight to bottom of nose block. If model dives, add weight to tail. After the model is balanced to glide at an even angle, you are ready to test your model under power.

In making the test flight, the principal thing to avoid is damage to your model. Gliding and flying it over tall weeds is the safest, because the weeds or tall grass break the fall gently in case that the model should stall or dive.

A few trial flights will acquaint you with the ship, and all other adjustments can be made through the adjustable control surfaces.

So far as possible, see that both blades of the propeller make the same angle with the shaft center to avoid vibration.

END

Scanned From November 1935
Popular Aviation


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