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Build A Minute Model of the Nieuport 161

A Realistic Plane Easily Built by the Novice in Half the Time
Required to Build the Regular Type of Flying Sale Model

By HERBERT K. WEISS

  
The plane before and after covering. Note the simple construction but realistic appearance.

ONLY a few years ago two hundred mile an hour fighting planes were considered the ultra-experimental ships of any service. Today there is hardly a military air service in the world without several types of fighters in the 300 mile an hour class.

France's latest is the Loire-Nieuport 161, which hits 480 km. per hour at 13,000 feet. or almost 300 miles per hour. Of all metal construction, the 161 is powered by an 860 horsepower Hispano Suiza Ycrs "moteur cannon."

While of essentially simple construction, the model retains the trim lines of the original, and its flying ability reflects the high performance of its big brother.

Wing

The wing is made in one piece. Cut out two of each size ribs from 1/32" sheet balsa. The leading edge is 1/8" square balsa shaped to correct section after assembly, and the trailing edge is 1/8" x 1/16" balsa. After the frame has been assembled and cemented, put blocks under the wing tips to give one inch of dihedral at each tip. The wing tips are cut from 1/16" sheet to fit. 

Fuselage

Cut two halves of each bulkhead and cement the halves together. Bulkheads A. B and C are 1/8" balsa, and D, E, F and G are 1/16" balsa. Cement bulkheads D and E to the wing center section. Then add the two 1/16" square side stringers, and to these add the rest of the bulkheads and the tail post. Add the remaining stringers. The top and bottom stringers are 1/16" square and the rest 1/32" square bamboo. Fill in the nose with scrap balsa and sand smooth.

Tail Surfaces

Trace the rudder and stabilizer outlines on 1/32" sheet balsa and cut them out. Sand smooth, cut slots as shown to permit the parts to lock together, and cement them together. Note the 1/32" x 1/16" stiffener on top of each side of the stabilizer.

Propeller

Carve the propeller from a block of hard balsa. A ready formed prop may be used but is likely to prove unsatisfactory because it is too high pitched for this type of model.

Landing Gear

Bend two forks, put the wheels in place and cement the assembly to the leading edge as shown. Thin hardwood wheels are preferable. All wire parts are No. 14 wire (1/32" steel may be used). Bend a rear hook and prop shaft. Note that part of the rear hook projects out of the rubber installation opening to facilitate handling.

Two wire cross-braces strengthen the bulkhead G and prevent the hook from pulling through.

Covering

Cover carefully with silver tissue. Spray with water and allow to dry. Add tail wheel. Tail insignia is, reading from front to back, blue, white and red stripes. Wings' circles are red, white and blue, red circle outermost.

Flying

Dope nose and prop or add lead until center of gravity is at position shown on plan. Test for location of the C.G. by balancing on finger tips. Vertical position is not important but the model must not balance in back of the position shown or flights will be unsatisfactory. Use two strands of 1/8" flat rubber. Adjust for flying by warping elevators up or down. Because of its small size the model is tricky to adjust, but once its tendencies are learned it is a steady flyer.

         We will appreciate hearing from model builders, whether or not they like this type of scale model more than the more elaborate and detailed type published in previous issues of MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS.

Scanned From June, 1938
Model Airplane News

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