SINCE it was first introduced into model competition back in June 1944, the Kid has made quite a name for itself for con­sistency in winning high places in all the contests it has entered. It is easy to build, has enough strength to hold together but no excess construction to add weight. Above all, it possesses the ability to absorb all the power the motor is capable of producing.

It was this model that won the 1944 Metropolitan Championships for its de­signer. The Kid possesses a terrific climb which is guaranteed to make any other ship look like it is power gliding. As an added feature it has realistic lines, sport­ing a genuine cabin, and it thoroughly disproves the theory that a high pylon and retracting wheels are necessary to obtain good performance.

FUSELAGE—Crutch construction was chosen for the fuselage because of its abnormal strength and ease of building. First step after enlarging the plans is to obtain 2 lengths of 3/16" x 1/2" balsa and one length of 3/16" x 1/2" bass for the motor bearers. The bass is spliced to the balsa where shown and then they are laid on the plan. Crosspieces are cut from 1/8" x 1/2" and inserted in their respective places. Next construct the top formers, 2t, 3t, etc. and glue in place. Remove the crutch from the plans, make and add the lower formers. Install firewall and bind the landing gear in place. Cut out the wing rest and glue in position. Take two lengths of 1/8" x 1/4" bass for the top and bottom stringers, then place the remain­ing stringers (1/8" sq.) in place and glue. The cowl is made from two blocks glued together, carved, then split apart and hollowed out.

WING—The wing is built in four sepa­rate sections: two tip panels and two center panels. First, cut out all the ribs and wing tip outlines; then put the spars and trailing edge in place and insert the ribs. After all sections are completed, cut the dihedral braces from 3/32" hard­wood and assemble the sections into one unit. The false ribs may then be inserted into position. Use plenty of glue at the joints. Reglue all joints and put wing aside to dry.

STABILIZER—First cut out all out­lines. Pin these in place and put the leading edge in position, being sure to use waxpaper over the plans as you may want to use them again. Next, select a hard straight length of 1/8" x 1/2" balsa for the spar. Taper to 1/8" at tip and place in position. Then obtain some 1/16" sheet and cut into strips 1/2" wide; these are for the ribs. Insert the rectangular pieces into position and glue. When assembly is dry, remove from plan, cut airfoil to shape and finish with fine sandpaper.

RUDDER—The rudder is last on the construction list. The outlines are cut from 3/16" medium balsa and pinned to the plans. Internal construction is 3/16" x 1/8" and is put in next. When dry, remove from plans and sand to streamline shape.

COVERING—The wings of the original Kid were covered with red Silkspan and had white tips. Stabilizer was red, rud­der white and the fuselage was silk covered and doped yellow. The wing and stab are covered with the grain of the Silkspan going spanwise. Use wet paper, it's easier to work with. When covering is finished the paper will shrink without being re-wet. When all surfaces are covered and dry, apply 4 coats of clear dope and finally 2 coats of yellow to the fuselage.

FLYING—Before testing the model be sure the c.g. is 60% of the chord back from the leading edge of the wing. Being this far back it enables the ship to circle tightly without danger of spinning in. Select an open field (grass covered) and glide the model from shoulder height. If it dives, add incidence; if it stalls, vice versa. The motor is installed with 3/32" right thrust (on an 11" prop) and no down thrust. When the glide is set, head for the nearest flying field with tool box in hand. Use low power on the first few flights and work in a right spiral climb and a tight left glide. When all is set, open her up wide and beg, borrow or steal some means of transportation on which to chase your ship—you'll need it!

Scanned From January 1946

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